Hi, I'm Lew, music fan and longtime Kyoto rambler.  This is just one musical idea for weaving the beauty of Kyoto and your vinyl addiction into one seamless melody.

I was first introduced to the Kyoto record scene when my band Nice Legs came over from South Korea to play at the 2016 Kyoto Record Matsuri at Zest Oike mall. Hangover notwithstanding, it was one of those days you never forget. Rows and rows of meticulously curated old LPs and 45s, magnetic DJs and even a live performance from real-life princess, vocalist Princess Prin Prin.

The following year, in a wild turn of events, I ended up moving to Kyoto. Shortly thereafter, I stumbled upon a sidewalk sign that said 'Used books and records 4F,’ meandered up the stairs to Honto Records, picked up a Bukowski novel, and there began a friendship that would alter the course of my Kyoto existence.

Now, it’s your turn.

Day One

Kyoto Station, first stop: a radio. Before you do anything else, walk across the street to Yodobashi Camera and buy yourself a one-thousand-yen-ish portable radio.  Tuning into the local airwaves unlocks a vast sea of new and nostalgic melodies, and turns the rest of your trip into something that feels deeply personal while also tying you with invisible strings to everyone else in the city tuned to the same frequency.

Check in at Kabin Koji. Just take a cab straight there from the taxi stands at Kyoto Station. I'm pushing this particular hotel because its neighbor is the legendary livehouse Takutaku, but any of Kabin's downtown properties will keep you close to where you want to be. Drop your bags, rest your feet a spell, and let's get back on the road.

Kamogawa river. Head east until you hit the river and feel your breath catch when you get there. There's a reason I make it a point to visit Kamogawa every single day: the mountains, weeping willows, jumping stones, wooden taverns with their lanterns lit along the banks. It has never failed to save my day. 

Honto Records. Hop off the riverwalk at Marutamachi street and head to the flatiron building on the NW corner of the intersection.  You’ll start to hear the sound of something rare as you climb the stairs to the fourth floor. Enter to find a slender maze of cardboard boxes devoted to one thing and one thing only: the music.  Although the owner, Hotta San, might tell you differently.  He once quipped, “I don’t know if I love music or I just love records…” 

Operating in the same sunny spot for over 13 years, Honto has become ubiquitous as the place to go for great selection and zero smarm. You may chance upon other music fans just standing around talking about music. It’s a beautiful mess.

Asked what tips he had for travelers visiting Kyoto record stores, Hotta said,  ‘Go everywhere. Don’t be afraid to talk to the store staff, get their advice on records, and what’s happening around town.  They might not say much when you walk in, but they will talk to you if you talk first.’ 

Stop by any day between 3-10 p.m, with cash only, to get your funk, jazz, soul, techno, disco, Japanese pop, world, house, and rock fix.  And, I’ll say it again, maybe the best used English literature section in town. 

Full disclosure, I may have a personal bias toward this particular record store. You can take it up with our attorneys.

Imperial Palace Gardens. Hang a right when you exit the building and walk toward the trees.  After a few minutes you’ll find yourself in front of the Southeast entrance.  This giant park of pebbles, pine trees, and palace structures was where the Emperor of Japan hung his hat (imperial crown?) from 1331 to 1869.  It’s a completely romantic place to get lost in.  

Lovely cherry blossom paths, arresting turtle ponds, and prime reading benches everywhere you look.  Do note the palace buildings are only open on specific days of the year and you can’t go in them even when they are, as they are for external viewing only.

Meditations. A stone’s throw from the Gardens, and another very special spot: eclectic, chill, exclusively fantastic stuff, specializing in world, ambient, drone, psychedelic, folk and experimental music, plus Japanese releases, reissues, cassettes, and our favorite incense in town.  I snagged a repress of one of my most beloved albums here, 肉を喰らひて誓ひをたてよ,  recorded in Osaka in 1986, by the elusive psych pop outfit, Hallelujahs. There’s nothing like it.

Qué Pasa. All that digging making you hungry? Directly across the street from Meditations is our home away from home hq. Que Pasa has the loveliest crew in town, the warmest vibes and damn good burritos. I may have spent some time here as a dishwasher and margarita slinger, so feel free to take my opinion with a grain of salt & tequila ;) but there’s a reason they have a legendary reputation in Kyoto.  Everyone knows Que Pasa.

100,000t / Alonetoco. Walk off that salsa by going back south, turning right onto Marutamachi, then left on quaint, tree-lined Teramachi street.  Walk a few hundred feet and climb another mysterious flight of stairs to our last shop of the day.

The owner of 100,000t is the reason my band had a record store festival to play in the first place. Legend has it, he went from record store to record store, and somehow cajoled a whole gaggle of record store owners to come together each year to make the magic happen.  

This is a common thread of the Kyoto record store scene.  Where you might imagine there would be competition, there is collaboration. If their shop doesn’t have the genre a guest is looking for, they’ll gladly recommend another one that does.  That kind of thing.  Anyway, the warmth is palpable.  

Music-wise, this spot’s got everything: soul, classic, random, rock, jazz, music from Japan and beyond, also used books, cassette tapes and CDs. Do note that they are open only from 12 - 7 p.m, so you may want to swap the order of operations and save Honto Records for last (open until 10 p.m.) if the times don’t align~

End the night with a lightly swanky dinner at Sui Kyoto a few blocks south, note that reservations are required, and choose your own adventure from there!  Sweet dreams~

Day Two

Breakfast at Yayoiken. If you want to opt for a traditional Japanese brekky, you gotta give Yayoiken a whirl. Sure, it’s a chain, but it’s a good one. The portions are generous, the teishoku meal sets are delicious, and the prices are right. They’ve got pescatarian and vegetarian options, to boot! My go-to order: the salmon teishoku, but don’t miss their dashimaki!

Nishiki and Teramachi Markets. Some call Nishiki Kyoto’s kitchen, and to be perfectly frank, it can also feel a lot like hell’s kitchen, since it’s usually a jam-packed tourist destination; still, it wouldn’t hurt to take a look around and try some pickles, skewers, and tea before the claustrophobia kicks in.  Escape to the other branches of the shotengai (covered shopping streets) to fill your pockets with gashapon, stationery, and souvenirs as you make your way to Jet Set Records.

Jet Set Records. Bask in their bright and spirited selection of indie records, the latest dance music, brand-new releases, plus hip hop and beyond. I picked up another top 10 record in my collection here: Doomin’ Sun, by US-based superduo, Bachelor. Last time I DJed, their song ‘Anything at All’ had half the room on Shazam.

The ride north. From Jet Set, walk about five minutes north to Kyotoshiyakusho-mae Station. Take the orange Tozai Line toward Karasuma Oike for just two stops before transferring to the green Karasuma Line heading north. Ride it about eleven minutes to Kitayama Station, and the Botanical Gardens are waiting right outside Exit 3.

Kyoto Botanical Gardens. Is it hyperbolic to say this is one of my favorite places on the planet? It’s simply a calm & happy place. When I’m there I feel I’ve fallen into a fairyland of flowers, shady wooded coves, sunken European gardens, tulips, roses, and bonsai trees. There’s an extensive conservatory, outdoor children’s library, and a terraced cafe in the middle, with a wide green lawn made for running or twirling with your arms outstretched.  And also, rose flavored ice cream. I digress. Anyway, I come here often to read, collect my thoughts, plant them, and pick them up later.

Recordshop GG. When you’ve frolicked plenty in the gardens, tiptoe outside the northwestern entrance, and voilà. Across the street you will see the vanilla & mint-colored Recordshop GG. Lovely arrangement of jazz from across the universe, plus pop, ambient, folk, rock, Japanese and world music, fantastic used cassette collection, and a side order of charm.  Browsing their collection feels a bit like being in a garden itself. Many of the brilliant jazz vocal albums in my humble collection were gathered here.

Time to head back south. I’d recommend a 15 minute cab or the bus, if you’re on budget.  You’ll have to walk around 13 minutes to the bus stop and then ride for 30 minutes, but you’ll get to see more of the East side that way. Optional detours: Ginkakuji Temple, neighboring Philosopher’s Path, and RRRRR Records & Vintage, if you do go that route.

Sixth Garden Records. Once you're there: techno paradise, a sprinkling of cassettes, house and world music, and an owner who's a well-known DJ around town in his own right. He hosts occasional in-store performances and regular Sixth Garden nights over at nearby Club Metro, so keep an eye out for those too! You can also grab their exclusive merch like shirts and totebags, which we’ve been spotting all over Japan!

Jazz Spot Yamatoya. Just skip across from Sixth Garden, take the little alley past their bright blue sign and duck into heaven.  There's always a chance they’ll be full, but if they are, you can easily head over to Zac Baran and see what they’ve got cooking.  Jazz Spot Yamatoya is a Tiffany lamp-lit parallel universe lined from wall to wall with precious jazz records all waiting for their turn on the table.  I’ve spent many memorable evenings here with friends & loved ones, and/or my sketchbook. Beer, cocktails, coffee and tea, and other non-alcoholic options, as well.  Cash only here, too.

Dinner at Sushitetsu. Tucked between the river and  Pontocho, this place is popular, and you may have to wait for a spell, so grab your book or a juice-box sized sake from the convenience store. They do take reservations, but only for groups of four or more.  Make dang sure you write your name down before getting in line.

Now, to the food, for prices this great, you may be wondering how the sushi is so good, too~ Perfect spot for those of us who like a non-pretentious vibe, a front-row seat to the chefs at work, and a bill that won't compete with what we've already spent on records.

Wonder where the night will take you next, upstairs of the same building to DJ dance club classic, West Harlem, or into the Kiyamachi night where a thousand tiny bars await!

Thanks for going on the journey with me, it’s time for me to put another record on. I truly hope you enjoy all the sights and sounds of our big little town. Remember to respect the scene, support local shops and artists, and let us know what other guides you’d like to see @kabinhotels on IG!

Stay tuned for our full Kyoto for Music Lovers list coming soon!

We’ve got a full lineup of hotels in Kyoto, Osaka, and Tokyo waiting for you. Book direct with us to save up to 20%.

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Matane~ See ya around~

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